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The Search For Inner Beauty

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Popular in Europe and Asia, U.S. Consumers have yet to fully embrace the benefits of beauty from within ingredients and products. Still, Sales are forecasted to grow.

For centuries, people have been searching for the fountain of youth, or a product or ingredient that can help them look like they have found it. While laugh lines used to be a badge of aging gracefully, many in the U. S. and around the world are doing what they can to look and feel as young as possible, for as long as possible.

Today, the beauty industry is big business. According to GCI Magazine, the demand for cosmeceutical products from the U.S. alone is estimated to reach $8.5 billion by 2015.

“Most of society is vigorously fighting against the aging process and although philosophically we understand the importance of inward beauty; it doesn’t lessen the attention individuals place on their outward appearance,” said Tim Hammond, director of sales and strategic relations for Washington-based Bergstrom Nutrition. “This focus creates market opportunities for supplement manufacturers whose products work from the inside out. The global beauty within category is forecasted to grow to $6 billion in sales by 2015.”

The beauty from within category has been popular in Asia and Europe for some time as consumers are wise to the notion of what a person puts in their body has an effect on the outside as well. However, Americans are only now embracing this concept. According to Jeff Lind, vice president, health business unit of the New Jerseybased Frutarom Industries, it is the U.S. consumer’s lack of instant gratification that has hindered the category from growing as it has in other parts of the world.

“The simple answer, in my opinion, is a quick fix—U.S. customers are used to topical formulas and cosmetic procedures that provide an instant change, whether it’s temporary (i.e., lip plumping gloss) or more long-lasting (i. e., injectables and surgical procedures),” Lind explained. “The beauty from within category requires an investment of time and does not provide the quick fix.”

While U.S. consumers have relied on topical products for their beauty needs in the past, Suhail Ishaq, president of BioCell Technology LLC in California, believes that if educated properly, consumers will start to change the way they think about the products they use. “People doubt that products containing ingestible beauty ingredients actually work, largely due to a dogma that skin products have to be topical,” he said. “This non-scientific notion ignores the fact that our skin is the largest organ of the human body and what we ingest ultimately affects our appearance— the correlation is undeniable … We, along with the industry, are educating the public that the skin, the largest organ in the body, can be visibly improved with the use of clinically substantiated supplements.”

Inside & Out

What ingredient suppliers and finished product manufacturers need to get across to consumers is that while topical products can address issues on the skin’s surface, which can temporarily relieve symptoms, taking the appropriate supplement will work from the inside out. “Beauty from within ingredients are unique in their performance. Since they are taken orally, their activity is systemic, improving skin, hair and nails on the cellular level. In addition, they are cumulative (the longer you use them, the higher the concentration),” said David Djerassi, beauty supplements and cosmetic consultant to New Jersey-based LycoRed Ltd. “They are absorbed in the deeper layers of skin, contrary to traditional cosmetics, which in the majority of cases, act in the stratum corneum and the top layers of the epidermis.”

While collagen, hyaluronic acid (HA), green tea, and grape seed extracts, vitamin E, lycopene and MSM (methylsulfonylmethane) are among a list of ingredients for their long-standing beauty benefits, suppliers continue to study and innovate to make their versions household names:

Collagen: The most abundant protein in the skin, collagen helps the skin look firm. However, as a person ages, the body’s ability to produce collagen diminishes. In fact, researchers at Beijing University’s School of Public Health in China explored the effects of marine collagen peptides on the skin of aging mice. In findings published in the Chinese Journal of Preventive Medicine, researchers reported that test animals given oral doses of marine collagen peptides showed a significant thickening of their epidermis, as compared with mice in the control group.

Frutarom’s Collactive™ is a marine-based, all natural ingredient composed of marine collagen and elastin peptides in the same ratio found naturally in skin. When taken orally, collagen and elastin have shown a synergistic anti-wrinkle action, stimulating skin to lift and tone sagging areas and minimize lines and wrinkles while increasing skin moisture retention, according to the company.

BioCell Collagen® is a multi-patented, scientifically substantiated ingredient that promotes active joints, youthful- looking skin and healthy connective tissues. It provides a synergy of hydrolyzed collagen and low molecular weight (LMW) HA and chondroitin sulfate, offering multi-dimensional nutritional support for the health of connective tissues such as joint and skin, according to the company.

“A human skin study of BioCell Collagen suggests that this innovative ingredient offers multi-layered mechanisms that can address these agingassociated physiological events. Daily ingestion of 1 g of BioCell Collagen for 12 weeks resulted in an increase in dermal collagen content and facial blood microcirculation,” said Ishaq. “This favorable metabolic shift towards anabolism caused by BioCell Collagen ingestion led to 75 percent reduction of skin dryness/scaling and 13 percent decrease in fine lines and wrinkles. Addressing the key event in aging with BioCell Collagen can be considered a highly effect solution for skin beauty.”

Vitamin E (Tocotrienols and Tocopherols): A powerful antioxidant, vitamin E has been used as a supplement and topically for the skin (both taken internally and topically) for some time. Among its many benefits, vitamin E helps speed up the skin’s healing process. In Dr. Nicholas Perricone’s New York Times best-selling book, The Wrinkle Cure, he advocated the use of tocotrienols (high performance vitamin E) in cream as well as oral supplementation to promote skin health and prevent skin aging.

“Tocotrienols and tocopherols are members of the vitamin E family. While very similar in structure, tocotrienol differs in that it has an unsaturated side chain compared to a saturated side chain in tocopherol,” explained Bryan See, regional product manager for Carotech Inc. in New Jersey. “Due to its unsaturated side chain, tocotrienol has exhibited numerous unique and additional biological activities, which are not shown by tocopherol. As such, tocotrienol has been touted as the vitamin E of the 21st century.”

Carotech offers Tocomin® 50%C, a cosmetic-grade, patented, natural, fullspectrum palm tocotrienol complex oil suspension, as well as Tocomin SupraBio® 20%, a patented and bioenhanced natural full-spectrum palm tocotrienol complex. “Tocomin SupraBio is a unique and enhanced delivery formulation in that no other tocotrienol product in the market can guarantee improved oral bioavailability of each individual tocotrienol isomer by at least 250 percent, even without prior food intake (regular vitamin E requires specific type and quantity of fat for absorption, hence, the bioavailability is low and inconsistent),” said See. “This bioenhanced system (SupraBio system) ensures consistent and optimum levels of tocotrienols are absorbed and delivered to tissues and organs that most needed them.”

Lycopene: Another antioxidant, lycopene is a carotenoid found in red fruits, such as tomatoes and watermelon. Studies have shown that lycopene can help protect the body from UV rays and improve skin texture. According to a study published in the British Journal of Dermatology, researchers from the University of Manchester and the University of Newcastle studied the impact of lycopene on sunburn. Participants received olive oil and tomato paste, which contains lycopene, or just olive oil for 12 weeks. Scientists observed that the lycopene group reduced their risk of sunburn after being exposed to UV light compared to the olive oil group.

Lyc-O-Mato® is one LycoRed’s most successful beauty ingredients. A patented, all natural extract of red, ripe tomatoes, Lyc-O-Mato is more active than lycopene, because it contains in addition to lycopene, a complex of betacarotene, phytoene, Phytofluene and tocopherols, which are naturally found in tomatoes. An additional advantage is its oily consistency, which increases its bioavailability and its cumulative skin levels, according to Djerassi.

Sulfur: Sulfur is one of the oldest known remedies for acne—the Ancient Romans would soak in sulfur hot springs as treatment for skin inflammation and other infections. Bergstom Nurition offers OptiMSM®, as MSM is a naturally occurring nutrient found in the normal diets of humans and almost all other animals. MSM is made up of 34 percent sulfur (the fourth most abundant mineral in the human body). This versatile nutrient supports healthy, active lifestyles and benefits multiple structures and functions within the body, including connective tissues and the respiratory system, according to the company.

“OptiMSM is a perfect example of ingredient with evidence suggesting its topical efficacy; along with supporting evidence indicating its main component, sulfur, is incorporated into hair and skin when consumed orally,” said Rod Benjamin, director of technical development for Bergstrom Nutrition.

Benefits Beyond

As suppliers and manufacturers educate consumers about the benefits of beauty from the inside out, it has been suggested that finished product manufacturers may want to try a doublepronged approach by creating beauty supplements and topical products that will work together as a system. This way, American consumers can use the topical products that they are used to in addition to the corresponding supplements.

“Marketing an ingestible beauty supplement alongside a topical cosmetic seems to be gaining significant traction, suggesting that an anti-aging product that is sold as a two-part regimen is likely to succeed,” said BioCell’s Ishaq. “This approach can satisfy the consumer with an immediate effect from the use of cosmetics and also with a more systemic, longlasting benefit from oral supplementation. The synergy comes from the fact that mechanisms can be different depending upon the route of administration, although this two-pronged approach employs the same active ingredient.”

BioCell Collagen is available in both ingestible and topical formulations with each providing a different set of biological properties for comprehensive anti-aging benefits, according to the company. And Carotech’s Tocomin can be formulated as oral and topical products. Further, Tocomin is also available in different forms such as oil, water dispers-ible powder and beadlets to facilitate manufacturers to incorporate into their products.

Additionally, ingredients for skin health often go far beyond making skin tone even and combating fine lines and wrinkles—many of the ingredients utilized for skin health also benefit other areas of the body. For instance, collagen and MSM also aid bone and joint health, while lycopene and green tea protect the body from free radicals. According to Ishaq, by creating combination formulas, it allows finished product manufacturers to create unique formulas that combat a number of conditions and at the same time allows consumers to cut down on the number of pills they may be taking.

“There is a clear trend that companies create combination formulas which contain various science-substantiated ingredients that could work together to provide multiple health benefits including skin health and beauty,” said Ishaq, offering the example of JUSURU Life Blend™. “It is a proprietary liquid dietary supplement that contains BioCell Collagen together with resveratrol and polyphenols from various fruits, offering both joint and skin health benefits. Its skin beauty benefits were demonstrated in a human clinical study with the finished product.”

Concerns

As ingredient suppliers and finished product manufacturers are attempting to educate the masses about the benefits of beauty from within supplementation, consumers in turn are looking for products to support their claims with research. “Consumers are concerned about safety,” said Bergstrom Nutrition’s Benjamin. “As ingredients that have been used in topical formulations move into oral supplements, they wonder if the proper safety and toxicity profiles have been established.”

Further, Carotech’s See noted a number of things that finished product manufacturers should consider before choosing an ingredient to utilize in their finished product:

• Is there any research—especially human studies—to support the benefits claimed? “Published papers in peer-reviewed journals are important,” he said. “And are the studies carried out with the branded ingredient, not just any generic ingredient?”

• Are they effective as claimed?

• What are the guidelines or standards the suppliers follow to manufacture the ingredients?

• Are the suppliers GMP (good manufacturing practices) certified? “So that your dietary supplement products can achieve GMP without any issue,” he said.

• What is the support the supplier can give in terms of formulation strategies and marketing?

Frutarom’s Lind said that promoting the quality of the science is something manufacturers should be on the lookout for. “Emphasizing the duration of a study is one example that can show science quality,” he said. “You’re not going to see a change in wrinkle depth in a week or a month, per se, and consumers know this.”

“The U.S. market, despite the continuing strong sales in traditional cosmetics, dietary supplements and food and beverage industries, has experienced slow growth in beauty supplements compared to the fast growth pace of the Asian and European markets,” concluded LycoRed’s Djerassi. “However, as the major cosmetic, dietary supplements and food and beverage companies get familiarized with the benefits of such products and fully adopt the new communication channels, the expectation is that the U. S. market will witness considerable growth in beauty from within supplements by 2014-2015, commensurate with the large U.S. personal care market.”

Extra! Extra!

Visit www.niemagazine.com to read about a study showing how skin regeneration and repair are dependent on time of day.

FOR MORE INFORMATION:

■ Bergstrom Nutrition, (888) SEEK-MSM
■ BioCell Technology LLC, (714) 632-1231
■ Carotech Inc., (732) 906-1901
■ Frutarom, USA, (201) 861-9500
■ LycoRed Corp., (877) LYCORED