The fruit of the cocklebur plant, which grows worldwide and is often considered a noxious weed, has been revealed to possess antioxidant and anti-inflammatory components that could make it useful as a skin protectant, according to new research.

Researchers found that compounds in the species’ spiky fruits reduced damage from UVB exposure and sped wound healing in laboratory tests using cells and tissues. The cocklebur extracts also appear to influence the production of collagen, a protein that gives skin its elasticity and prevents wrinkles.

“We found that cocklebur fruit has the potential to protect the skin and help enhance production of collagen,” said Eunsu Song, a doctoral candidate at Myongji University in South Korea, who conducted the research with Myongji University Professsor Jinah Hwang. “In this regard, it could be an attractive ingredient for creams or other cosmetic forms. It will likely show a synergistic effect if it is mixed with other effective compounds, such as hyaluronic acid or retinoic acid, against aging.”

Cocklebur is a plant native to Southern Europe, Central Asia and China that has spread worldwide, often found in moist or sandy areas such as roadside ditches and riverbanks. It has been used for various conditions in traditional medicines.

The new study is said to be the first to examine the fruit’s properties as a wound-healing agent and skin protectant.

Researchers first studied the molecular properties of cocklebur fruit extracts and isolated compounds that could contribute to antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.

They then used cell cultures and a 3D tissue model with properties similar to human skin to study how these compounds affect collagen production, wound healing and damage from UVB radiation. The results showed that the cocklebur fruit extracts encouraged collagen production, accelerated wound healing and exerted a protective effect against UVB radiation.

Comparing the bioactivity of cocklebur fruits grown in different places, the researchers found that fruits grown in South Korea had slightly higher anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and greater wound-healing activity than those grown in China.

Researchers cautioned that high doses of cocklebur fruit extract can be harmful and further research is needed to determine how to use it safely in cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications.

“Cocklebur showed a potential as a cosmetic agent by increasing collagen synthesis; however, it showed negative results with higher concentrations. Therefore, finding the proper concentration seems very important and would be key to commercializing cocklebur fruit extracts in cosmetics.”

Reference:

American Society for Biochemistry and Molecular Biology. “Scientists see anti-aging potential in an invasive weed.” March 30, 2023.

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